Grill shopping was once as simple as choosing between charcoal’s nostalgia and propane’s ease of use. Visit any hardware store today and you’ll notice a bewildering number of cookers lined up outside.

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Fry says he can cook a steak to rare, then butter baste it in a pan “so there’s no bouncing in and out of the house.” The Timberline’s large cook space fits up to nine chickens, eight racks of ribs or ...